15th Nov 2006

Ready to Wear for Spring Summer 2007

Key Retro - 1990s

A retro blender in itself the 1990s appears to be the general retrospective view taken by fashion for next spring. The legacy handed down from design giants, Helmut Lang, Muccia Prada, Jil Sander and Martin Margiela together with the continued influence throughout the 1990s of Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto, Dolce & Gabbana and Gianni Versace, then the aggressive glamour of Alexander McQueen and the fashion-as-art approach of Hussein Chalayan, all can be seen as a collective force on catwalk collections for 2007.

Think clean lines in Gortex and Nylon, tanks and micro minis, bold block colour, metallics, deconstruction, underwear as outerwear, sports-luxe, uber-bags, geek and utility chic .... All these unmistakable 1990s signatures with posh punk, corset jackets and big knickers to boot!!

Key Look - Deconstruction

The resurgence of grunge took us by surprise last season and so to has the adoption now of deconstruction by designers, some as hugely influential as Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton and Nicholas Ghesquiere at Balenciaga. Comme des Garcons and Hussein Chalayan both used it as a device to deliver a narrative on change and others merely whispered its influence through small details in hemlines and sleeves. It remains to be seen whether this powerful look can be carried across to the mainstream, but it is set to add twist to the wardrobes of the super cool.

Key Colour - Block brights

Although some colours occured more than others it would seem that any point along the spectrum will be fashionable for spring summer as long as it is strong, rich and saturated and appears solo or in bold, bright blocks.

Key silhouette - Egg

Volume however achieved has been a huge feature for the up-to-the-minute ensemble for some seasons now and this one is no exception, but next spring will see a more deliberate well defined egg form for skirt shapes and occasionally the overall silhouette. Last year's puff ball may just about do, but aficionados will want to crack this look if they're to maintain a fashionable profile.

Key Dress - A-line mini

Something of an anomaly in a season still in tune with layering and volume generally, but spring season's coolest dress will be the A-line mini. Maybe or maybe not heralding a rethink for the following season's silhouette (see also skinny trouser below), but certainly a way of shedding layers for evening.

Key Erogenous zone - Hips

A celebration of the female form is reflected in the different ways designers have accentuated the hips, from draping and padding to panelling. Not an easy trend to adopt but quality, cutting and good design will draw a fine line between sexy and mumsy.

Key Garment - Ultra skinny trouser

Whilst skirt shapes are mostly still a volume story, to the contrary an almost universal choice for the trouser is the ultra skinny. Cigarette pants, stretch denims and spray on leathers all feature in collections right the way over four cities.

Key Fabric - Metallics

Metallics have studded collections for the past few seasons but spring 2007 sees an overwhelming display of silver and gold, not simply shiny shards within a wider collection, but making up entire swathes of evening wear as in Max Mara, or a recurring theme throughout collections such as Burberry Prorsum and Balenciaga.

Key Shoe - Perspex heels

Perspex heels are a clear winner in the shoe trend.

Key Detail - Spangle

Designers like greedy Magpies are showcasing an array of shiny spangles in their latest collections, metal studs, huge paillettes and carapaces of beads and sequins, which will offer a playful mood with sparkle after the gloom of a preceding winter.