|
A
Alice band - A band worn accross the front
of the top of the head holding hair from the face. Named after
Alice (Alice in Wonderland) from Lewis Carroll’s classic
book Through the Looking Glass. examples
A–line - Skirt or dress shape that
kicks out from the bust or waist to make an ‘A’
shape silhouette, very popular in the sixties. examples
Alpaca - A natural wool yarn derived from
the long silky fleece of Alpaca (large domesticated mammal
of the llama family.) Traditionally a natural yarn but also
manufactured from Rayon and cotton mixes.
Androgeny - A look of indeterminate gender,
often featuring traits associated with the opposite gender
to the wearer. examples
Angel sleeves - Long loose flowing sleeves,
very popular in the sixties and seventies. examples
Annie Hall - Diane Keaton played the role
of Annie Hall in the film of the same name in 1977. Ralph
Lauren designed and styled this look which was made popular
thereafter. The style mixes masculine slightly oversized and
baggy clothes key pieces being baggy trousers, mans shirt,
mans tie, mans waistcoat and floppy hat.
Appliqué - Pronounce ap-li-kay.
Decorative application of one fabric to another, often with
floral and leaf patterns, but can be of any design and are
stitched around the edge. examples
Apron - Domestic or industrial utility
garment, worn outside other clothes to protect them.
Argyle - Knitted design of solid diamond
blocks contrasted in a pattern, often used for socks and jumpers.
The pattern Traditionally originates from the town of Argyle
in Scotland. examples
Asymmetric - Meaning uneven or one sided,
non-symmetrical. Hemlines are often diagonal. Tops having
one shoulder strap or sleeve. examples
Aviator sunglasses - Fashionable style
of sunglasses, often worn by pilots oversized. examples
^
B
Baby Doll - Short dress or night dress
popularised by Carroll Baker in the 1956 film "Baby Doll".
Often in light weight sheer fabrics like chiffon. Sometimes
trimmed with feathers, beads and ribbon and reminiscent of
children’s nightwear.
Baroque - Descriptive term for expensive,
extravagant and elaborate ornamentation, verging on the excessive
and of the style popular in the 17th to mid 18th century in
Art, Music and Architecture.
Batwing - Long, broad sleeve shape made
from a large triangular piece of fabric from the shoulder
to the wrist then joining wrist to waist, very popular in
the 1980s. examples
Beret - Round soft hat often made from
felt, but can be knitted. Popular during the first and second
world wars and is still a item of military uniform today.
It’s most noted revival was in the late 1960s and 1970s.
examples
Bertha - Deep collar usually of lace worn
at and around the shoulders. Typical of mid 19th century
Bias cut - cutting fabric diagonally across
the grain, causing the material to drape fluidly and elegantly
across the body. Expensive due to it's inefficient use of
fabric. Often used for silk or satin dresses for maximum slink
factor. Popular in the 20's and 30's and now a dress signature
of amongst others John Galliano. examples
Blazer - Light weight, loose fitting sports
jacket, often striped or worn as part of a uniform. Usually
worn below the hip. examples
Blouson Bodice or jacket gathered into
a cuff at the waist. examples
Body - (i) Referring to any all-in-one
bodice and knickers examples
- (ii) All-in-one leggings and top close fitting
as to be apparently second skin
Boiler suit - All-in-one or overall with
long sleeves. Industrial origin as protective apparel incorporated
in fashion in the latter half of the twentieth century. examples
Bomber jacket - Waist length cropped jacket
with a rounded or puffed out body. Large but fitted arms are
elasticated at the wrist, sporty looking often with zip fastening
from waist to neck. examples
Boucle - Pronounced ‘boo clay’.
Woven or knitted fabric with looped or knotted texture.
Box pleat - Pleat made of two flat folds
turned inwards towards each other, creating a box like shape
on the front of the garment. examples
Breton hat - A brimmed hat that rolls up
all the way around, a popular shape since the end of the 19th
century.
Bristling - Technique of brushing fabric,
often leather, with stiff brushes for a worn look.
Brocade - Rich, jaquered weave fabric with
a woven design of raised figures and floral motifs, pattern
emphasized by contrast in weave or colours. examples
Broderie Anglaise - Popular stitching technique
whereby small holes are cut out of a white fabric and the
edges over stitched also in white, creating delicate patterns
used most often in underwear and trimmings for dresses. Known
in Europe since the 16th century.
Brogue - A flat heeled, leather, laced-up
shoe, patterned with a perforated design. Popular male shoe
shape; popular in back and brown.
Bustle - Pad or frame worn at base of the
back, used to drape the skirt over to distend skirts. Also
known as dress improvers and often associated with the higher
classes of the 17th and 18th centuries.
^
C
Cableknit - Knit in a raised loop stripe
resembling a twisted cable, used in knitted sweaters. examples
Caftan (Kaftan) - An ankle length open
bodiced gown with long, wide sleeves. Usually made from a
very lightweight fabric such as muslin or cotton. North African
in origin. examples
Capri pants - Loose pants, slightly tapered
to the mid calf were very fashionable in the 1950s. The name
comes from the island of Capri, a popular holiday resort at
the time. examples
Catsuit - All-in-one garment, usually zipped
or buttoned from navel to neck. Popular in the 1960s owing
it’s name to the tight, slinky feline silhouette the
wearer would adopt. examples
Chantilly Lace - Named after the northern
French town of Chantilly famous for it's production. A finely
decorative floral lace sewn onto a sheer hexagonal mesh ground.
Chain mail - Flexible and luxury fabric
of many interwoven metal rings, used in suits of armor. A
similar version called Oroton was popularized by Versace in
the 1980s. examples
Chenille - Silk, rayon, cotton or wool
combined and tufted creating a velvet like pile. Soft and
luxurious to touch.
Cigarette pants - Very narrow fitting trousers
that taper towards the ankle. (see also Drainpipes) examples
Cloche hat - Women’s hat worn from
the mid 1930s. Fitted to cover the head from the back of the
neck and pulled down over the forehead just above the eyes.
Often made from felt. examples
Cocktail dress - A short knee length dress
shape of the 1920s, lightweight wool, satin, silk and velvet
fabrics are usual and often cut to reveal the shoulders and
arms. examples
Corduroy - A narrow ribbed fabric of rayon
velvet cut pile. Popular in the 19th century for hunting attire,
breeches and coats.
Corsage - A floral brooch, often oversized,
attached to the bust or waist of a dress. examples
Corset - Undergarment - close fitting to
impose silhouette with defined waist and or full bosom. Traditionally
in two pieces, boned and laced up back and front. Originally
called ‘Stays’ this term is now largely obsolete.
examples
Court shoe - A medium heeled, often pointed
shoe, popular in black. examples
Cowl - A soft draping of fabric, cut so
that the fabric can hang in soft folds. Often found on necklines,
backs and even trousers. examples
Crepe - Thin, gauzy, silk fabric usually
crinkled in some way.
Crinoline - Fabric of stiffened silk or
cotton, used as a foundation to support the edge of a hem,
the top of a sleeve etc; formerly used for the lower two thirds
of underskirts to extend them. examples
Crochet - Decorative knitted looping technique
with a special needle. Often made in to shawls and blankets,
made popular by the 1960s hippie movement.
Culottes - Informal trouser-like garment
with wide cropped legs giving the illusion of a full skirt.
examples
Cummerbund - Wide cloth band worn as a
waist sash. Part of traditional male dress in India, Iran
and South America, later adopted by men as an alternative
to a waistcoat and by women as a belt. examples
Cutouts / Cutaways - Term referred to the
actual extraction of fabric from a garment in a controlled
fashion, these may be irregular or regular shapes within the
design. examples
^
D
Damask - A fairly thick and glossy fabric
of many textile fiber combinations. The pattern can appear
to be both dull and matt depending on which way the yarn has
been woven. Traditionally used in gowns and upholstery. examples
Day dress - Dress suitable for shopping
or business wear.
Decollete - Bodice shape with a very low
neckline traditionally worn on ball gowns and evening wear.
Dogtooth - Broken check resembling dog
teeth, see also Hounds Tooth. examples
Drainpipe - Very narrow fitting trousers
often tighter around the ankle (see also Cigarette pants).
examples
Draping - Technique of hanging fabric in
folds or cover with fabric in loose folds. In draped garments,
hemlines are often uneven. examples
^
E
Empire line - Typical of 17th century ladies,
low cut dress with a high waist line and short bodice. examples
Epaulettes - Shoulder ornament or trimming
designed to give effect of width to shoulder line. Originated
as device to hold shoulder belt and protect shoulder during
wartime. A typical addition to the military look on the runways
now.
^
F
Fatigues - Military combat apparel.
Fedora - Popular hat shape of the 1950s,
made from a soft felt and noticeable by it’s center crease
on the head. A pinched front and a snapped brim. examples
Fishnet - Open weave knit, more often associated
with hosiery and became a defining feature of Punk dress in
the late 1970s.
Fishtail - A fan shaped addition to the
train of a dress, popular in evening gowns a fish like train
follows behind the wearer.
Flannel - Much like toweling, a short pile
fabric, popular in 1970s sportswear particularly shorts.
Fluted - A long sleeve flared at the wrist.
examples
Frogging - Braided fastenings usually looped
over a button or braided toggles in the same fabric. Often
used in military uniform and traditionally Asian garments.
Funnel - A large over size neck shape,
stands away from the neck. Similar to the turtle neck but
larger. Unlike the polo neck in that it doesn’t roll
or fold over. examples
^
G
Gilet - A sleeveless over-garment similar
to the waistcoat though often baring a zip front, a sporty
addition to the wardrobe, popular also in leather and fur.
examples
Grosgrain ribbon - Heavily ribbed ribbon
usually made from silk, used in milinary. examples
^
H
Halter neck - Dress or top shape with a
high panel on the front, which is then tied around the neck,
exposing the back and shoulders. examples
Harem pants - Loose fitting trousers tied
or gathered at the ankle, very popular in Turkish dress and
‘belly dancing’. examples
Harris tweed - (see also Tweed)
A soft thick tweed woven from hand dyed woolen yarns. Popular
fabric for coats and suits for both men and women. examples
Hipster - Style for skirts and trousers
where the waist band fits low on the hip rather than the waist.
Made popular in the 1960s where they were often worn with
a large belt. examples
Hounds-tooth - A slightly larger and more
noticeable version of the ‘Dogs tooth’ print. examples
^
J
Jelly shoes - Brightly coloured clear plastic
sandals, popular attire for the beach.
Jersey - Stretchy fine knitted fabric,
used in t-shirts and sportswear and figure hugging garments;
especially good for draping. examples
Jodhpur - Trousers worn for horse riding,
very full from hip to knee and tight over the calf. Finished
with a piece of elastic under the foot. examples
Jumpsuit - see Boiler suit.
^
K
Kaftan - see Caftan. examples
Knife–pleat - Very narrow pleats pressed
to form regular sharp pleats to skirts and dresses. Particularly
popular from the 1920s to the 1950s.
Kimono - Japanese coat like garment, Obi
sash belted with long wide rectangular sleeves. Fabrics used
are often luxurious and highly decorated. examples
Knickerbockers - Or bloomers are full loose
trousers, cropped and secured at the knee with a buckle or
band of fabric, popular sports attire for women in the 1860s.
examples
^
L
Lame - Shiny fabric made with either gold
or silver metallic threads. Luxurious and glamorous. examples
Lattice - A diamond style pattern cut into
or sewn on to he fabric of a dress or top. examples
Leg warmers - Knitted footless socks, worn
by ballet dancers to conceal warmth during and after exersize.
Come in a wide range of colours.
Lycra - Man made stretch fabric made from
elasticated yarns. Since introduction in 1958, lycra has proved
an essential component in underwear and other figure hugging
garments made popular in the 1980s, especially in sportswear.
^
M
Macintosh - Or ‘Mac’ is a shower
proof coat similar to the trench, often buttoned up from the
knee to the breast with large lapels. examples
Macrame - Knotting technique popular in
home furnishings. Became associated with clothing in the 1960s
and has had subsequent rebirths since the 1990s mainly in
the form of handbags.
Maribou - A fur like trim made from feather
remnants, a smaller version of the boa, popular in dress trimming
for eveningwear.
Mary Jane - Flat or low heeled ladies shoe
with a buttoned ankle strap fastening. Became popular in the
1920s.
Maxi skirt - The name given to a long,
full length skirt.
Merino wool - Very fine woolen cloth made
from the merino sheep. Popular for outdoor garments such as
jackets and sweaters.
Muscle back (see also Racing back)
- A feature usually in vest tops where the back is cut away
to reveal the wearers shoulder blades. Very popular in sportswear
for both men and women. examples
^
N
Neoprene - A man made fabric, used for
wetsuits and other water sports attire. Has a stiff, body
hugging quality that seals body heat in. examples
^
O
Obi - Wide Japanese sash belt worn with
Kimono. examples
Opaque - Non transparent or sheer. examples
Oversized - Enlarged garments, scales are
played with to alter the natural silhouette of the wearer.
examples
^
P
Pantaloons - see Knickerbockers.
Papoose - Popular carrying device for a
small child or baby, The papoose originated in North American
and is a native Indian term for Small infant. examples
Parker - Padded hooded anorak style coat,
made popular by the 1960s Mods. Often fur trims the hood and
popular in shades of green, navy and brown.
Patchwork - Technique of sewing pieces
of fabric together to form a larger piece. Often found in
hexagonal designs and incorporating thrifted fabrics.
Patent - A high gloss and waterproof finishing
to leather and nylon. examples
Peep toe - Popular shoe style where the
front section is cut away to reveal the wearers toes. examples
Pencil skirt - Popular skirt shape cut
from a straight block from hip to hem. Often knee length and
worn with suit jackets. examples
Peplum - see Basque.
Peter Pan collar - A small collar shape
with two equal rounded lapels indented in the middle. examples
Pinifore - An apron style dress, usually
halter neck with a tie waist. Often also with a scoop or square
neck worn over a blouse.
Plus fours - Cropped knickerbockers style
trousers made of tweed and fall four inches below the knee
band, where they get their name.
Polo neck - A tall collar often knitted
as part of a jumper that folds down to keep the wearers neck
warm.
Polo shirt - A short sleeved pullover with
small flat collar that would stay in place during an entire
game of Polo. Later adapted to t-shirts and sportswear.
Poncho - Traditionally a circular piece
of fabric with a hole cut away for the head. Acts as a cape/jacket
and is more often knitted with tassels. examples
Primary Colours The three main saturated
colours of the ‘Colour Wheel’ Red, Yellow, Blue,
from which all other colours are created by their combination.examples
Princess line - Fitted dress where the
skirt and bodice are seamed longwise in panels.
Puffball - A popular style of skirt in
the 1980s. The Puffball is a double layered skirt that stands
out from the body and has a padded look to it. examples
Pussy bow - A large bow detail that more
often ties around the neck, can also be added as a detail
to the waist and wrist. examples
^
Q
Quilted - Padding technique enclosing a
layer of wadding between two pieces of fabric, held in place
by sewing a diamond pattern over fabrics. examples
^
R
Racer back (see also Muscle back)
- A feature usually in vest tops where the back is cut away
to reveal the wearers shoulder blades. Very popular in sportswear
for both men and women. examples
Ribbing - Knitting technique where small
rows are finley knitted together to form a texture. Popular
in Polo neck jumpers and Skinny-ribbed jumpers.
Ruche/Ruched (pronounce roosh) Fabric gathered
and sewn into a seam shorter than the length of the fabric.
Often used for trim but also used to create draping and texture
within the body of the garment. examples
^
S
Sateen - A thicker version of satin, with
a thicker weave, very luxurious for eveningwear and linings
of jackets.
Satin - Fabric of particular weave and
gloss finish. The finish is achieved by heat treatment, resulting
in fabric with a high sheen face and matt reverse side. Often
but not exclusively made from silk, modern alternatives include
rayon. examples
Seersucker - A lightweight cotton, rayon
or silk fabric with a crinkled striped surface. Popular for
summer during the second half of the 20th century.
Shift - A simple unstructured dress shape,
slightly fitted at the bust with darts and clean lines down
to the knee.
Slogans - Wordage covering the front of
a t-shirt or dress.
Smocking - A tightly gathered section of
material, usually elasticated for comfort and decoratively
stitched. Mainly used in the bust area of a dress though also
a popular detail to the waist and cuffs.
Spaghetti straps - Very fine, ribbon like
dress straps, popular on summer dresses. examples
Spandex - Totally man made fabric, shiny
to look at popular sportswear fabric often used in swimwear,
leotards and hosiery. Very popular in the 1980s.
Sunburst pleats - Fine Knife pleats that
burst out from the waistband of a skirt, similar to that of
a sun ray.
^
T
Trench coat - Coat of military origin,
rainproof, buttoned and tied with belt usually of same fabric.
The coat has many details with pockets, flaps and sometimes
epaulettes. examples
Trompe l’oeil - An optical illusion
created by a knitted design, popular designs are collars and
buttons sewn in to the actual garment.
Tulle - A very fine mesh like net fabric,
used in eveningwear and bridal gowns.
Tunic - A long or short, usually sleeveless,
straight, tubular garment. examples
Tweed - (see also Harris tweed)
A soft thick fabric, woven from contrasting woolen yarns.
Popular fabric for coats and suits for both men and women.
Owes it’s name to the traditional woolen mills alongside
the river tweed in Scotland. examples
^
V
Velour - Similar to velvet, Soft material
of short pile. Used for tracksuits and other sports wear items,
made popular in the 1970s.
Velvet - Closely woven short pile fabric,
soft and rich to touch. examples
^
|
